
In the coastal parish of Cinco Ribeiras on Terceira Island, tradition, memory, and flavor come together this week as Queijo Vaquinha celebrates its 24th anniversary with a limited-edition cheese honoring its founder, João Henrique Melo Cota.
The commemorative creation—named “Ti Cota”—is more than a product. It is a portrait in taste. Conceived from an idea by musician Luís Bettencourt, the cheese pays homage to the man behind the factory through a sensory signature: notes of coffee, cinnamon, and aguardente, flavors long associated with João Cota himself. “He always drinks his coffee with cinnamon and aguardente,” said Zita Cota, his daughter and one of the business’s owners. “Anyone who knows him recognizes that scent immediately.”
For Zita, the goal was not simply to launch another variety, but to craft a narrative—one that would allow customers to encounter her father through taste. The result is both intimate and symbolic: a cheese that captures personality as much as tradition.
The milestone also coincides with João Cota’s 75th birthday, reinforcing his enduring presence as the “face of the house.” Over the past two decades, Queijo Vaquinha has grown into more than a dairy producer; it has become a gathering place woven into the social fabric of the community. “For many people, this is like a home,” Zita said. “It’s not just about the cheese—it’s about the connections formed here.”
That sense of continuity is visible in the rhythms of daily life. Generations have passed through its doors, yet the tradition remains: young people still gather there during holidays for afternoon snacks, turning the space into a living meeting point where cheese is, as Zita puts it, “just an excuse.”
Yet beneath the celebration lies a familiar challenge facing many small businesses in the Azores—economic volatility tied to tourism and labor shortages. With 80% of sales dependent on its storefront, fluctuations in visitor numbers have a direct impact. “Since COVID, I don’t remember an Easter this quiet,” Zita noted. “It feels like an ordinary week.”
Seasonality compounds the difficulty. During peak months, the shop may employ up to 15 people; in quieter periods, only a handful are needed. “It’s very unstable,” she said. “One year is strong, the next is not. It makes it hard to maintain jobs and ensure steady wages.”
Still, the anniversary will be marked in the spirit that has defined the business from the beginning: community, celebration, and resilience. The limited-edition “Ti Cota” cheese will officially debut on Sunday, likely becoming available to the public in the following days.
Festivities begin Saturday evening with performances by comedians Jarc, João Nuno Gonçalo, Luís Filipe Borges, and Carlos Vidal, followed by a DJ set from Gomez. On Sunday afternoon, live music from Vando Barros, CandyJune, and Mário Gomez will carry the celebration forward.
In the end, the story of Queijo Vaquinha is not only about artisanal production—it is about how a place, a family, and a community can be distilled into something as simple and as profound as a piece of cheese.
In Diário Insular, José Lourenço-director
Translated into English as a community outreach program by the Portuguese Beyond Borders Institute (PBBI) and the Modern and Classical Languages and Literatures Department (MCLL), in collaboration with Bruma Publication and ADMA (Azores-Diaspora Media Alliance) at California State University, Fresno. PBBI thanks Luso Financial for sponsoring NOVIDADES.


